Oversized outerwear takes centre stage for AW12 but bigger and more masculine doesn’t have to mean un-chic. Think coats that are generously cut: double-breasted classics, sleek and sexy military styles, and slouchy evening jackets. Add a pair of sharp and shiny shoes to feminise the look.

Sumptuous berry hues dominate AW12’s palette. From violet to cranberry and blackcurrant, there’s a sultry shade for every taste and a style to suit all wardrobes ­– sleek peplums, tailored bomber jackets and high-necked doll dresses among them.

Once the cornerstone of retro wardrobes, velvet has been given a modern spin by the key international designers this season. And it’s got sexier – long skirts slashed to the thigh and slinky liquid velvet dresses – as well as more tailored full-skirted coats and mannish trouser suits.

No longer the territory of moody teenagers, gothic has grown up this season. Lace, devoré, second-skin leather, austere high necklines, capes and sweeping hemlines are central to the look, and heavily kohled eyes, pale skin and blood-red lips complete it.

Goodbye cardigans, hello sweaters. This season’s knitwear isn’t
just for the weekend or blustery autumn walks. They are there to
be noticed and worn all week, from the softest cable-patterned cashmeres to metallic tiger-print numbers, beaded and embellished knits to those with quirky motifs.

The tough stuff shows its softer side this season. Rather than just accents, leather is key to a whole range of looks, including 80s-style dresses à la Kristen Stewart, tailored riding jackets, keep-forever shearlings, and demure princess coats.

The flirty skating skirt silhouette adds a dash of fun to this season’s darker palette and high necklines. Choose from mid-thigh flippy
hems that hint at sportswear, dresses in Russian-inspired fabrics,
and vampish skater coats with a touch of fairy-tale drama.

Eternally fashionable, black and white is big again this season but with nuances that make it perfect for right now. For AW12, it’s all about sleek minimalist cuts in luxe fabrics, sexy tailored dresses and monochrome lace. Anything goes as long as it’s black and white.

Elaborate fabrics, such as brocades and jacquards, as well as all manner of embellishments add a magpie appeal to fashion’s darker side this season. But with golden needlework, subtly bejewelled dresses and sheer hems dusted in silver sparkle – the feel is more magical than bling.